Insulation on TF3310

I'm hoping Crossroads Marketing can answer this.  I'm very close to pulling the trigger on one, but cannot find any information regarding insulation.

- What level of insulation is in the Elevation line (R values), specifically the TF3310?  Is the garage equally insulated as the rest of the coach?

- Does it have the Polartec (zero degree tested) upgrade, which is standard on all Cruiser Sahara & Cruiser Patriot/Provincial models?

- Are the Dual Pane windows an option, and are any of them in the wild with this option yet?

If I were to guess I'd say the Cruiser and Elevation have the same construction, but give Crossroads a call and they will help you out.

Thanks to both of you.  I'll try calling in the morning.

I got my answers this morning from the Crossroads sales rep for my area, Kevin Combs.  Note that the answers below are my understanding and not direct quotes, so any inaccuracy is probably due to my own ignorance.

- What level of insulation is in the Elevation line (R values), specifically the TF3310?  Is the garage equally insulated as the rest of the coach?

Sidewalls are R9 (Cruiser is R15), Floor is R15 (Cruiser is R28), Roof is R15 (Cruiser is R27).  Yes, the garage is equally insulated.

- Does it have the Polartec (zero degree tested) upgrade, which is standard on all Cruiser Sahara & Cruiser Patriot/Provincial models?

No, because it's totally different construction.  The Elevation has laminate walls with block foam insulation, and the studs are aluminum, but not 16" on center.

- Are the Dual Pane windows an option, and are any of them in the wild with this option yet?

Yes, they're an option.  They would result in a bit more of a delay when ordering new.

- The underbelly is listed as "enclosed" at http://www.crossroadsrv.com/elevation/options.asp, but it does not say whether it's heated.  Is it?

No, it's not specifically heated (no air blown in, no tank wraps).

I was definitely surprised by the answers, since I was expecting the construction to be the same as the Cruiser line.  I was wondering how they kept these things so light, though (TANSTAAFL).  I'm not sure this is a dealbreaker for me.  They are basically using the same constructions as the rest of the industry (AFAIK), and they are still backing this with the 2+5 warranty.

My biggest concern is currently the prospect of freezing water lines/tanks/pipes (no experience here).  If we stay out in it a little too late in the fall season, or take it out of storage for a January trip to Florida, what can we expect?  Do we have to "winterize" the moment the temperature drops below 32 in the first scenario, and do we wait to de-winterize until we get to Florida in the second scenario?

Jpitt42----I once had a little trailer that had hardly any insulation in it----I came back from Florida a little sooner than expected--in a very cold spell, before I could get winterized things froze up.  There was even Ice in the toilet bowl. I turned the furnace on set it about 60 degrees and everything thawed out within a day or two.  My point being if the furnace is left on I think it would have to get down very cold for things to start freezing up. However just running on the 12V battery the furnace will not stay up and running very long.  If the temps bounce down to 30/32 for a night or two (without the furnace on) I think you would be fine.  If it were to stay down there for a week I would be getting worried. As far as taking off to Florida, I wouldn't put water in every tank and pipe but drain the AF and put a little water in the fresh water tank (in case of emergancy)  and skedattle for the south at night when cold temps come in you should be plugged in somewhere with the furnace keeping the trailer nice and cozey.   Just me 2 cents worth.